OK, first impressions of Canggu, a small seaside town billed as the hipster part of Bali, as I wandered about at 7am yesterday: a rubbish-strewn building site with a drab-looking beach with uninviting grey sand. But The Calmtree Bungalows, where we are staying, is absolutely magical, with its thatched-roof bungalows. And the Hotel Tugu, where we had lunch, was like the very best Indonesian fantasy - antique furniture, whirring ceiling fans, high peaked ceiling, door handles in the shape of elephants ... I want to move in and never leave. Oh my goodness, and their day spa, which we had a tour of - lots of turquoise-tiled private plunge pools and airy rooms with massage beds in a botanic-garden setting. Needless to say, appointments have been made. By night, post sunset cocktails at The Lawn beach lounge, this town (which looks so much better by night) had redeemed itself. But if you’re heading here, do not expect streets of beauty! Here is a snap of my favourite thing I saw on my early-morning walk. Wall murals are a little bit of a thing here.
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