Just finished riding the metric and volunteering at Long Trail Century Ride!
I’ve been mainly focusing on bouldering lately - can’t wait to get outside on a rope next week! 🧗♀️🏔
, and check out her badass art page too! @amilliontinylines
So my finger has been bothering me quite a bit recently. Just before heading out to Japan I felt so good on the wall. I felt confident and strong and like myself again. However, next time I climbed my finger was painful. The pain was unfamiliar and concerning, it was not the pain I had previously. I worked closely with my physio over the World Cups in Japan and the US. The pain in my finger was severe but there were no sign of weakness. I decided to compete for a number of reasons. I did not feel that I was putting my finger at risk. I knew I could not perform at my best. I would need to hold back but I really wanted to be out there on the mat. •
After the WC I stayed out in the US with hopes to train for the upcoming lead season. However, the pain in my finger did not get better, it got worse and I was left feeling frustrated and agitated. •
Upon returning home my team and I made the decision to get an scan and seek further consultation. The ultrasound showed the my original injury has healed nicely. Which I have to admit I was relieved to find out, especially after all the effort that went in to fixing it up. The new pain was from a reactive tendon. Which is exactly what both of my physios (and my coach) had diagnosed. From what I can gather it is an unhappy tendon that gets swollen and stubborn and is annoying to fix. •
After much discussion and thought we decided to have a cortisone injection. A light dose to help settle things down, reduce the swelling around the tendon and allow me to heal and recover as best possible. There is debate about cortisone. I appreciate there are risks involved but I trust my team and believe they are just as passionate about me coming back stronger as I am. •
I’ve been asked if I came back to climbing too soon after my pulley injury. I do not believe that is the case. Especially after seeing how well the pulley has healed. Had I taken another few months to return this could still have happened. There was a lot of damage in my hand and this injury is not a surprise.
So I’m back to playing the come back game again. I can’t say how long I’ll be out. All I can say is that I won’t let this stop me. I’m far from done yet.
🙈 Невозможно представить себе скалолазание без скальных туфель и мешочка для магнезии. Магнезия нужна для того, чтобы улучшить сцепление рук с зацепами. ⠀
🤓 Она подсушивает пальцы, за счет этого они не скользят, и появляется возможность ухватиться даже за самые крохотные и неудобные зацепы.
Магнезия необходима как на скалах, так и на скалодромах – чтобы зацепы не засаливались.
Самые распространенные виды магнезии: ⠀
💭 Порошковая магнезия используется большинством скалолазов. Она хранится в специальном мешке, который крепится на поясе. При лазании боулдеринга, мешок можно оставлять под трассой, но в лазании на трудность, мешок является необходимым элементом снаряжения. ⠀
💭 Жидкая магнезия представляет из себя спиртовой раствор и так же может использоваться во всех видах скалолазания. Очень часто скалолазы комбинируют ее с порошковой, что увеличивает ее действие. Один из плюсов жидкой магнезии в отсутствие пыли.
Магнезию в любом виде вы можете приобрести на нашем скалодроме, обращайтесь к администратору. ⠀
Благодаря своему уникальному свойству связывать жиры, магнезию можно так же использовать для выведения жирных пятен с одежды. Нанесите порошок или жидкость на ткань, оставьте на несколько минут, а затем смойте водой. И… вуаля!
One of many amazing hikes in Washington... Mt. Rainier! Climbed early ish...in the season via disappointment cleaver route, going straight up on Ingraham direct was my dream but too late in the season, several cravasses. Big difference between going in June as to late August last year. Would stick to an early season climb unless you are really into long treks with switch backs. Total uphill hiking time to the top 9 hrs. Weather was more than amazing and probably just too hot, roasting hot!!! First climb with this team but major shot out to Paul and Jacob on a successful and super fun approach. Look forward to many other hikes together. #mtrainiernationalpark #climberslife #hikingadventures #summits #pnwonderland #climbing #trekkingday #rainiersummit #petzl #northface #mountains #mtrainier #glaciers
Throwback to Ghetto Simulator (V2) in Hueco Tanks. It’s far too hot to climb there now but I can’t wait to go back later this year! Hueco Tanks State Park is home to some of the best bouldering in the world in addition to an AMAZING thriving ecosystem in the middle of the desert, and a lot of really cool pieces of history. The huecos themselves support tiny aquatic creatures at different times of the year, wild boars hang out in the shade, and indigenous cave paintings are everywhere if you know where to look. The park also hosts birding tours and sometimes will be open late for bat viewings. It’s a pretty cool place. 👍🏻👍🏻