Got some fun waves 🌊 yesterday on my new board! 🏄🏻♀️ Big windy sets & I was pretty stoked on how this baby rides! It’s nice to get surf analysis from @russ.magic
to be able to improve & understand the subtleties of surfing.
When we surf together he can’t really see my waves since he’s on the outside usually so he can’t really give me feedback. He always says he would need to watch/take photos from the beach to be able to see better. And when he does see while we’re surfing together, the dynamic in the water just doesn’t work between us when he gives me feedback (it’s weird). Unfortunately he hurt his knee really bad surfing 🏄🏾 last week 😭 and he’s been out of commission.
On the bright side & ironically now he’s been my surf photog & trainer. People on the beach think I’m pro cuz I have a photographer following me around hahaha 🤣 As sucky as it is to surf alone while seeing him on the beach, it’s been fun to explore this new area of our relationship together as he supports me & coaches me! It’s also a lesson in being careful what you wish for. I just hope he recovers quickly so we can get back to shredding together soon.
My parents are here too so my mom was also watching and I felt so grateful to have my support squad on the beach cheering me on. Love 💕 the people in my life & couldn’t imagine life without them. So blessed to have a healthy mind & body 💪🏼 that can take on these waves with courage & grace. So fucking grateful to live surrounded by jungle 🐒& ocean, by the most breathtaking sunsets 🌅& astonishing moon 🌝 & stars ✨ shows you’ve ever seen. To feel so alive every day & to be surrounded by community & love. To be so privileged. When it comes down to it, that’s what we are. This life is a privilege & many of us were born lucky enough to never know true suffering & to be able to live each day happy & free and so don’t waste it!! Make the most of everyday! SERIOUSLY! Don’t let all the death, hatred & destruction around us get you down. I used to & it’s sucks. Don’t do it. Instead - Let it inspire you to be the change, turn shit around, spread love & light and just get outside and play! It’s so simple. Be love!
Lots of love,