Top Mentawai shots:
This might be my favorite (non-tube) surf photo I have of myself (excuse vanity, I’m back in the land of cold water closeouts). There was a Volcom movie called Psychic Migrations where Ryan Burch (hella great surfer) did this crazy turn on a rainbow coloured fish with both arms behind his back into tail slide piece of sex on water art, and I lost it. I would rewatch the whole movie and freak out every time that turn played.
So I had a mission; do that turn. I had the fish (with better spray job), I had the waves (also better than Burch’s) but I can’t say I had the (better) ability. 10000 hours, persistence, luck or whatever finally paid off. I started doing a couple and fuck they felt good. But I never managed to link up with a photographer (because I obviously surf for the photos (Sarcasm dudes (#imasoulsurferbru
))). One random day at Beng Bengs there was this rad dude swimming in the water with a proper camera setup. I tried my best to be blond Burch in the tropics and this was the result.