Fortunate as always to find the best company :) France, Canada, and USA represent! Wherever you are in the world, I hope you have a great week.
Only a month left in Siargao until I take my city break in Manila for the holidays. 🙂🙃
The past months have been a lot about getting fit, building strength, and better endurance in the water. Which means quicker pop-ups and, deeper paddles, and longer sessions. As someone who doesn’t work out, or has never had a sport (outside of occasional surfing and free-diving training), it’s my first time to really feel the effects of regular activity by surfing 3-4 times a week.
I always wondered why it was always such a struggle for me to paddle for my own waves (especially when it’s small or soft, and extra paddle is life), and that’s coz I honestly didn’t have the physical strength. So instead I focused on improving my rides, turning, re-entering, feeling out bigger and stronger swell etc. But I never got past feeling confident and capable to read and catch my own waves which really made me dependent on other people.
For my last month on the island, and with my new found physicality (😂) my goal is to overcome this handicap and really take that step to be an independent surfer. It’s honestly been intimidating going out without a guide and finding the right spot in the line-up and paddling for waves in the presence of more experienced surfers. But hey, you gotta start somewhere?